For Your Safety always read and follow Manufacture's use and disposal instructions.

STAINING WOOD
SANDING
Remove all hardware (knobs, hinges, etc.) Fill all nail holes or cracks with Zar wood filler, let dry and sand smooth. The first step in producing a good finish is to sand all surfaces smooth. However, be careful not to over-sand, as this closes the pores of the wood and prevents proper penetration of the stain. Never use any sandpaper finer than #220 grit or coarser than #180 grit on unfinished wood. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Sandpaper run across the grain creates scratches; cross grain sanding will show up when the stain is applied. Avoid orbital sander for the same reason. The best method is to use a sanding block. Never sand in just one spot, as this will close the pores of the wood and cause uneven absorption of the stain. After sanding go over piece with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a chemically treated cloth, which is tacky and will pick up all sawdust, steel-wool fibers, lint, dust, etc.

STAINING (ZAR)
Use a T-shirt, (cotton) sock, cheesecloth, or poly-brush to apply stain. Zar stain is a combination stain and controlled sealer, which penetrates evenly on most types of wood. Stir stain well. Apply stain working inside out and bottom up. Using another lint free cloth to wipe off excess stain as you go along. Allow 12 to 24 hours drying time. When dry buff with #0000 steel wool, and wipe down with a tack cloth before applying next coat, this will remove all lint and dust that has settled in the stain during drying and will insure a more professional smooth finish.

STAINING PLYWOOD
When staining fir plywood, a pre-seal or stain controller is needed so the grain will not be so pronounced; and will "TAME" the grain. A pre-seal is available at most paint stores or makes your own by combining equal parts of white shellac and denatured alcohol.

POLYURETHANE FINISH
WIPE-ON -- SATIN or SEMI GLOSS ZAR
After desired color has been achieved, apply our WIPE-ON ZAR, which is a tung oil product that produces a satin or semi-gloss finish. When dry, it becomes heat, alcohol, and water-resistant. Apply WIPE-ON ZAR with (clean cotton) cloth. Two coats of finish are usually sufficient, although a third and fourth coat should be applied to surfaces that receive extra wear, like tabletops, dressers, chairs, etc. Allow finish to dry 18 to 24 hours between each coat. Extra drying time maybe needed in humid weather. Do not apply in direct sunlight. When piece is dry buff between each coat of finish with #0000 steel-wool. The buffing breaks loose dust and lint particles that adhere to the wet and drying surface. Wipe down with a tack cloth for a grit free surface. After last coat is dry, to achieve a dull hand rubbed effect, buff with steel wool and then polish briskly with a piece of felt. It is not necessary to wax, as waxing tends to build up and attract dust.

GLOSS, SATIN and ANTIQUE ZAR
TIP: Do Not Shake Can
To apply Zar Finish we recommend our POLY FOAM throwaway brushes. These inexpensive brushes eliminate unwanted brush marks in your final finish. Since they are disposable no time wasted cleaning brushes. The only difference between wipe-on ZAR and brush on satin or gloss ZAR is the method of application. All other instructions remain the same. (Refer to wipe-on ZAR).
Always stir with a gentle lifting motion to insure equal distribution of matting of glossing agents. To remove any bubbles from surface, lightly drag brush across surface. Final brush strokes should be in wood grain direction.

POLYURETHANE GEL STAIN
Gel Stain
Fills, seals, stain, and protect wood surfaces with a Satin sheen. For surface preparation refer to sanding instructions.

APPLICATION
GEL STAIN Cloth Method
Two coats are recommended for a smooth finish. Apply stain liberally to surface in a circular motion with a cotton cloth (T-shirt cotton). Wipe off the excess gel in the direction of wood grain. To achieve a more solid color, wipe less off, likewise to see more wood grain, wipe off more. Some experimentation maybe needed to obtain the look you desire. Apply to only one section at a time i.e. top, side, etc. To lighten wipe off with a paint thinner dampened cloth until desired color is achieved. Best results allow overnight drying time between coats. (sand first coat with #600 sandpaper and tack cloth before applying second coat.)

GEL STAIN Poly-Brush Method
Apply stain liberally to surface with a poly-brush (3" to 4") size works best. Brush stain on in wood grain direction. The more stain is brushed out, the more the grain will show through. DO one section at a time. If a solid color (painted look) is desired, apply a heavy coat evenly. Let dry overnight, sand with #600 sandpaper, tack cloth, and then apply second coat. To obtain a gloss finish or for extra protection, apply one coat of clear polyurethane.

CAUTIONS
All oil base finishing products are combustible and contain petroleum distillates. Promptly discard all used rags in a water filled container. Close can after each use. Keep away from heat and open flame. Avoid prolonged and repeated contact with skin. Use only in well-ventilated area. Read back of can for all safety information from manufacture. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.

PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS
UNDERCOAT PRIMER
NEW WORK
Remove all hardware (knobs, hinges, etc.) from the piece to be painted. Fill all nail holes or cracks with ZAR wood patch, let dry, sand the wood and patched spots until smooth; dust, and tack cloth to remove grit particles. On knotty pine furniture always use white shellac (3 lb. Cut) to seal the knots as well as the wood. NOTE: shellac is the only sealer that will prevent the knots from bleeding through. Apply shellac just to the knots, let dry six hours, sand, tack cloth, and then apply 1 coast shellac over the entire piece. Let dry overnight (10 to 12 hours.)

On woods other than knotty pine use BIN PRIMER sealer. Apply Bin Primer with a brush, always brushing with the grain. One coat is usually sufficient. Let dry overnight (10 to 12 hours), sand with #220 grit sandpaper, then tack cloth.
TIP: When using shellac or BIN PRIMER clean brush with denatured alcohol or a mild solution of ammonia and warm water.

OLD WORK
For previously painted or stained furniture, remove all hardware. Wipe surface with ZAR LIQUID SANDER to remove all wax, polish, grease and dirt. (Keep turning cloth to clean side) LIQUID SANDER is better than sanding with sandpaper because it opens the pores of the old finish. This creates a good bonding surface and aids to prevent chipping and peeling. Rub surface until gloss or slippery feeling has disappeared. Hard, glossy finishes will require more rubbing. Prepare as much surface as can be painted in a 30-minute period. After this time, the desired tackiness will diminish.
KEEP AWAY FROM HEAT OR OPEN FLAME.

ZAR FURNITURE REFINISHER
ZAR REFINISHER restores the natural beauty of the wood without stripping. It dissolves the old finish but does not eliminate the beauty of aged wood. (Patina) This product is recommended for us on lacquer, shellac, or varnish surfaces only. (NOT for use on paints or polyurethane finishes). It is advisable to cover floor under work area with a protective cover. Wear rubber gloves. Pour two cups of REFINISHER in a metal pan (not aluminum). Replace cap on can. Saturate a small piece of #0000 Steel wool (about 1/3 of a pad) and squeeze out excess. Starting at the top of your work, gently rub the pad in a circular area about one foot in diameter. Rinse pad frequently and squeeze out excess, repeat this step until the old finish is dissolved and clean. It is a good idea to overlap work areas and replace pad and REFINISHER often for best results.
When the entire piece is complete, use a clean pad to rub the surface in long even strokes, following the wood grain direction. This will remove any lap marks and provide a uniform appearance. Wait until surface is dries (about 30 minutes) then buff lightly with a dry pad of #0000 steel wool.
KEEP AWAY FROM SPARKS, HEAT, FLAMES AND ELECTRICAL DEVICES. USE WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION…..See back of can.

ZAR PAINT and VARNISH REMOVER
Remove cap with caution to release possible pressure. Replace cap and shake well before using. Flow on a heavy coat in one direction with a minimum of pressure. DO NOT brush out. Remover should be as a heavy coating. Let finish soften until bare surface can be exposed by gentle scraping (approx. 5-30 minutes). If a second coat is required, apply over first coat. Remove softened film with flat end scraper. (DO NOT USE KNIFE-EDGE SCRAPER as it might gouge or mare the wood). The removal of the softened finish on curved or uneven surfaces is made easier with the use of brass surface brush or detail brush. Do not allow ZAR REMOVER to come in contact with linoleum, asphalt, rubber tile or plastics, as damage is likely. ZAR removes all conventional finishes with amazing speed, and requires no solvents or neutralizers after removal. Its heavy consistency permits excellent cutting action on vertical surfaces and is harmless to wood, plaster, metal, glass and nylon.
CAUTION: Avoid breathing vapor, or contact with skin or eyes. Use only with adequate ventilation. Refer to back of can for manufacture safety precaution. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.

Supply Check List

• Zar Wood Patch
  
• Steel Wool
  
• Poly Brushes
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Tack Cloth
  
• Wipe Cloths

Copyright © 1977 Unfinished Wood Furniture Stores, Inc. All Rights Reserved.